Art of shoemaking



E. E. cur

ART 0F 'SHOEIIAKING Sept. 22, 1925.

- Original Filold June 19. 1914 Patented Sept. 22, 1.925.

UNITED: STATES PATENT' vori-icE.

EDWARD E. corn, or HOLLAND, MIoHIGAn, AssIGNon, BY Mi'isNE ASSIGNMENTS,To

UNITED, sHoE MACHINERY oonrona'rion, or PATERsoN, NEW JERSEY, A con-IORATION 0F NEW JERSEY.t

ART 0E sHoEMAKING.:

pplication filed .Tune 19, 1914, Serial No. 846,111. Renewed April 17s192.5. i

To @ZZ/whom t may concern.'

Be it knownV that I', EWARD E. Corri, a citizen of the United State-s,residing at Holland, in the county of Ottawa and tdt-ate of Michigan,have invented ,certain Improvemei'its inthe Art of Shoemaliing, of'which the lfollowing description, in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, is a specification, like. reference characters on tlie'd`i'"awings indicating like parts in the several figures.

Thisinvention relates to improvements in the art' of shoemakng andpaiticularlyV to the manufacture of boots andV shoes havingfastenerssuch asfblind or invisible eyelets.V

Ain invisible eyelet is an eyelet `set in the'lining portion of' a shoeupper beneath the leather or outer portion of'the upper and' in registerwith a holethrough the leather portion which permits the passage of thelacing. The term blind eyelet employed to designate an eyelet set in theouter portion of an upper in registerywith a hole in the lining portion.

Blind `and invisible eyelets are preferably setl after the layers of theshoe `upper have been stitched together, the setting being performedbymeans of a setting tool introduced from one side of the shoe upperthrough a lac-mg hole so that', by relative movement of theftool and theshoe upper, the clenching shoulder of the tool is positioned betweenadjacent layers of the shoe upper where it meets the entering end of theeyelet barrel' and clenches the eyelet between kthe layers. In insertingeyelets in this fashion difficulty has 4been experienced in locating theclenchingy shoulder of the tool with respect vto the layers ofthe shoeupper with] the result that the pron'ge of the eyelet barrel havesometimes failed to clench in the proper position between the layers.For example,

if 'the upper leather passes too' far beyond the clenching shoulder ofthe tool, the eyelet will clench between fthe lining or facing and thereinforcing stay, or partly beneath and partly above the stay, thusreducing the holding power of the eyelet.

It is, accordingly, an object of my invention` to provide an improvedmethod of inserting fasteners and clenching the .ends of their barrelsbetween adjacent .layers of material in a manner which will cause theentering ends ofthe barrels of the fasteners to be properly clenched inthe" ldesired position between `the layers. l/Vith` this object in view7when inserting fasteners in accordance with` the present invention,yrelative movement of' the setting tool and the outer layer of. thematerial is positively arrested when the clenchin-g shoulder of the`tool been properly positioned between the layers ofthe' work, and thisrelationof thev tool and the work' is maintained dnring the clenching ofthe fasteners.

In my prior co-pending application SerialA 'tion with the mechanism ofmy prior application' above noted, and in these drawings,-

Figs. 1 and 2 illustratev respectively portions'of the leather andlining parts of an upper before they are secured together;

vFig. 3 illustrates the securing of theparts together;

Fig. 4 is a view, partly' in section, of punching and eyelet insertingtools illustrating their useV inthe performance of the novel method: l

Fig. 5 is a view inperspective of the' setftingv tool, and

Fig; 6y shows a portion `of ain upper in which invisible eyelets havebeen set.

Asherein disclosed, the lining parts of the' upperjrare' prepared in"the usualfmanner. The leather41 part 30 "as shown in F ig. 1 is preparedbyl having the edges which are to' be ,exposed inthe finished shoefolded back upon the body ofthe blank'. l The'lining part' .32, as shownin Fig. 2, is cut approximately tothe size of the leather part yand areinforcing strip 33 of heavy canvas or similar material is cemented tothe inner surface ofthe lining' in thep-roper position to receive theeyelets' and thus afford theman additional holding. k

After' the vparts have been so preparedfthe' leather portion is placedupon the lining part with the edge ofthe lining registering with theedge ofthe leather' part o-r projecting' slightly beyond. The parts thensei cured permanently in that relation which 5 posed. The forward orlacing slit edgeof the upper is, of course, one of these edges and isstitched up, as also is the top edge of the upper and the other exposededge. The stitching operation is usually combined with an operationknown yas undertriinming which consists in trimming` off the surplusmargin of the lining part. As shownin Fig. 3, the needle bar 24 of thesewing machine is equipped witha trimming blade 26 for this purpose.

The lacing holes are next punched entirely through both partsof theupper and the eyelets inserted.' The holes punched in the leather orouter portion remain to be seen in the Iinished shoe while the invisibleeyelets are set in the holes formed in the lining portion with theirflanges inside the shoe and the ends of their barrels clenched on thelining beneath the leather or outer part.

As herein exemplified, after each lacing hole has been punched, theeyelet setting tool is inserted into the hole from one side of the upperand the eyelet is introduced from the other side. The entering end ofthe eyelet barrel is then forced against the clenching` shoulder ofthetool and clenched between the layers of the work. Relative movementof the tool and the work during the clenching operation is limited by aflange or abutment carried by the tool so as to ensure the clenching ofthe eyelet between the desired layers. The practice of my improvedmethod will now be described as carried out in the operation of suchmechanism as that disclosed in my prior application above referred to.

Referring to Figs. 4 and of the drawings, a punch 2O is shown asarranged to lco-operate with a punching die 22 to perforate the workresting on the table 19 which may be the work table of any well-knowneyeleting machine as fully explained in said application. At one sideyof the punching tool they setting tools are' arranged. The work isadvanced after each hole is punched to-'bring that 'hole into" alinementwith thev setting tools.

The lower or eyelet carrying set 16 is provided with the usual centerspindle 18 and acts to present an eyelet to the work and insert itsbarrel through the previously punched hole in the lining part of theupper which rests upon the table 19. rfhe clenching surface of theillustrated tool which may kbe utilized in carrying out this method iscon-` structed and arranged so as to permit its introduction through thehole in the leather or outer part of the upper by relative movement ofthe tool and the shoe upper. This tool has ya heavy and rigid flange 10,illustrated as integral with the tool, and is also provided with a solidspindle having a shouldered portion 12 and a leader or pilot 14 ofreduced diameter. The end'surface of the shoulder, that isthe surfacejoining the cylindrical surface of the 'portion 12 and` the surface ofthe leader 14, is shaped to act as a clenching surface, being curved asshown in cross-section in F ig. 4. 'lhe construction of the tool is suchthat when it is inserted from the outer side by relative movement of thetool and the shoe upper, the portion 12 will lill the hole in the outerlayer of the upper and the end surface Vof the clenching shoulder willbe disposed approximately iiush with the inner surface of the outer orleather portion of the upper. The lower surface of the flange 10 at thesame time bears upon the outer surface of the leather part 30.

ln using the mechanism herein illustrated in the practice of the presentmethod, the shoe upper is perforated by the punch 20 which is thenwithdrawnto permit the introduction of the setting tool into thelacinghole. The setting tool is utilized to feed the work so as to bring thelacing hole into alinement with the lower set which isthen movedupwardly, introducing an eyelet into the lacing hole. The entering e'ndof the eyelet barrel' is thus forced against the clenching shoulder ofthe upper set and continued relative movement of the eyelet and theupper set clenches the eyelet barrel between adjacent layers of the workas illustrated in Fig. 4. During this clenching operation relativemovement of the upper set and the outer layer of the work is positivelyarrested by the engagement of the work against the abutment or fia-nge10 of the setting tool so as to ensure the correct positioning of theclenching surface of the shoulder between the reinforcing stay 33 andthe upper leather 30. Thus the end of the eyelet barrel is properlyclenched upon the covered -surface of the lining part or reinforcingstrip which constitutes a portion of the lining. In this operation theclenching shoulder acts to roll outwardly theend of the eyelet barrelwhile the lowerl surface 'of the flange 10 tends to flatten the clenchedend of the barrel by pressing the leather part of the upper against it.y

Having now described the method of my invention, together with theproduct thereof and one form of apparatus for carrying out the method, Iclaim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the UnitedStates:

1. That improvement in methods of inserting fasteners in a. plurality oflayers of material by a setting tool adapted to be inserted through thelayers of the material so as to clench a fastener between adjacentlayers of the material characterized by the. fact that the movement ofthe outer layerY of the material relatively to the setting toolarresting the relative movement of the outer 10 is positively arrestedwhen the olenohing layer of the material and the setting tool j shoulderof the tool is in proper elenehing When the olenehing shoulder of thetool is position between the layers. properly positioned with respect tothe 2. That improvement in methods of inlayers to elenoh the eyel'etbetween adjacent serting eyelets in a plurality of layers of layers ofthe material. 15

material which comprises introducing a set In testimony whereof I havesigned my ting tool from one side of the material and name to thisspecification. an eyelet from the other side and positively EDWARD E.COTE.

